1.1　Knowledge of Material　材料知识

Fibres, yarns, fabrics and accessories are the basic requirement of any textile, apparel or related industry. It is very important to select the appropriate fabric ac-cording to customers'requirements.So the manufacturers select fibres, yarns and fabrics according to the product they manufacture.

1.1.1　Textile Fibre　纺织纤维

Textile is applied to woven and knit fabric, such as threads, cords, ropes, braids, laces, embroideries, nets, and clothes made by weaving, knitting, felting, bonding, tufting, etc.1And the different kinds of textiles possess characteristics that make them useful in numerous unexpected applications.Textiles are still the major com-ponent of the clothes we wear and of many furnishings in our homes and offices.Fibres are the most basic raw material for the textile industry.And fibres are divided into various categories on the basis of different criteria.The most common catego-rization is that of natural fibres and man made fibres.Fibres are also categorized as filament and staple fibres.Fibres in the form of strands are called filaments, example being nylon filament yarn.Very short fibres are known as staple fibres.The figure 1-1　shows a common classification of textile fibres.

Originally, all textiles were made from natural fibre such as cotton, wool, mo-hair, linen, ramie, and vicuna, etc. All of these were available only as staple fibres that had to be spun into yarns before they were to cloth.2And natural fibres are de-rived from plants, animals, or minerals, and include cotton, flax, wool, or silk, etc.Manufactured fibres are chemically produced.Each fibre has characteristics that make them suitable for various uses.Fibre blends are combinations of two or more different fibres.Usually the fibre present in highest percentage dominates the fabric, but a successful blend will exhibit the desirable qualities of all.

Silk was the first monofilament material, and for years scientists were obsessed with trying to make“artificial”silk. Some new textiles possess qualities that make them stain-resistant, flameproof, and even stiff.Innovation in textile technology con-tinues and more unusual products will almost surely emerge.These developments laid the foundation for the scientific principles that led the DuPont Company to in-vent nylon and polyester fibres and yarns.Artificial fibres are produced from natural products, such as cellulose and proteins.Not very resistant, can be dyed very easily but tend to lose color.Crease easily and if they haven't undergone special treatments can shrink or lose shape.These fabrics have a silk appearance, shape very well and are therefore ideal in the production of drapery.It can be used for lingerie, suits, blouses and lining.

Synthetic fibres are made entirely from chemicals. Synthetic fibres are usually stronger than either natural or regenerated fibres.Synthetic fibres and the regenerated acetate fibre are thermoplastic, they are softened by heat.Therefore manufacturers can shape these fibres at high temperatures, adding such features as pleats and creas-

es. Synthetic fibres will melt if touched with a hot iron.The most widely used kinds of synthetic fibres are nylon（polyamide），polyester, acrylic and polypropylene.

The most important animal fibres are wool, mohair, cashmere, etc. It is used in suitings, coatings, dress-goods, knitwear, rugs, etc.Highest quality mohair is expen-sive, and it is a difficult fibre to spin.Cashmere is the under-coat hair of the Cash-mere goat.Cashmere goats grow two coats, a fine soft under-coat and a coarse outer coat of long hair.3Cashmere is beautifully soft and lustrous, it has a slightly slippery handle and is used in high quality knitwear, coatings and suitings.Fabrics made from 100%cashmere are expensive, therefore mixtures with wool are quite common.

1.1.2　Yarn　纱线

In general, yarn may be defined as a linear assembled stage of fibres or fila-ments, which is formed into a continuous strand having textile-like characteristics. The textile-like characteristics refer to good tensile strength and high flexibility.Many non-textile materials can be designed to have similar strength in continu-ous-strand form.

There are four basic staple yarn manufacturing systems that have become well standardized. These staple yarn systems are the carded cotton, the combed cotton, the woolen, and the worsted.The carded and combed cotton systems were developed to convert short and long cotton and cotton-like fibres into yarn.The woolen and worsted systems are developed to convert short and long wool and wool-like fibres into yarn.

Before the advent of man-made fibres, silk was the only continuous-filament yarn available. The desired frequencies and directions of twist were added the single yarn, and subsequently multiple yarns.

If the filament is to be processed in a staple yarn system, thousands of fibres are brought together into a twist-less linear assemblage known as tow for subsequent crimping and cutting operation.4One of the advantages of man-made fibres is the possibility to exercise over each step of the production process.

A high-bulk yarn is a staple or continuous-filament yarn that has a normal ex-tensibility with having a high degree of fullness. These yarns retain their bulkiness under both relaxed and stressed conditions.Great covering power with little weight is possible in fabrics composed of high-bulk yarns.

1.1.3　Fabric　织物

According to the garments purposes and demands manufacturer will use, fab-ric can be chosen. There are many exciting fabrics in shops, with different weights, styles, and price ranges.The quality（durability, warmth, structure, surface, bulk-iness）of fabrics depends upon which raw materials are used to make threads, how they are spun, woven and finished（shiny, furry, waterproof, etc）.5

Most garments are woven fabrics made of wool or wool blend fabrics, which are divided into two categories—woolen or worsted. Many people can distinguish woolen fabrics by their heavier weight&handling from worsteds by their lightness&smoothness, but what they may not realize is that the two terms refer to the yarns from which the cloth has been woven.6Some fabrics, such as blazers, are woven with a worsted warp and woolen weft.The difference between them reflects their suitability for different uses—woolen for jackets and overcoats, worsteds for suits and trousers.

The weaving fabric includes plain, twill and satin, the classic types include cot-ton, linen and man-made as well as woolen and worsted, etc. The best-known terms for woven fabrics are as follows：

（1）Calico：the name is applied to any plain cotton. Used for“trying out”pat-terns prior to cutting out in the deserved fabric.

（2）Pile/Nap：the surface of fabric, tufts or loops formed by extra threads are woven into the fabric and these are either cut or left as loops.7

（3）Bedford cord：strong cotton or wool cloth with a definite rib in the warp. Unlike cord, the rib is not formed by a pile but is made by extra warp“stuffing”threads.

（4）Corduroy：a cotton or cotton blend fabric with a pile of ribs in the warp, known as wale.

（5）Duck：strong, closely woven cotton with a smooth surface.

（6）Flannel：a woolen or worsted twill fabric with a soft handle and surface achieved by milling. Best known as gray, it originated from wale.

（7）Gabardine：a fine twill fabric, usually worsted, cotton or linen, with a diag-onal appearance.

（8）Herringbone：a weave giving a zig-zag effect resembling the backbone of a fish, achieved by alternating the direction of the twill.

（9）Hopsack：a construction based on the plain weave in which two or more

warp and weft threads weave as one, forming a basket-effect.

（10）Panama：a lightweight plain weave suiting fabric.

（11）Serge：robust twill weave fabric, usually wool and plain dyed.

（12）Tweed：sturdy woolen cloth, originally woven in southern Scotland but now applied to wide range of fabrics, characteristics by natural colors in mixtures.

（13）Twill：description of any fabric woven in twill weaves（such as denim, gabardine and serge）. Twills can easily be recognized by the diagonal appearance of the surface of the fabric.8The cloth is traditionally cut so that in the finished gar-ment the diagonal effect runs from bottom left up to top right.

（14）Venetian：a satin weave fabric（smooth surface）with a lustrous look wo-ven with a worsted warp and a woolen weft.

The knitting fabric divides into two basic knitting forms of warp-knitting&weft-knitting. Knitted fabric is made by intermeshing loops, and would consist of any kind of fibres, yarns, stitches or patterns for apparel, home-furniture and indus-trial end-uses.9Knitted fabric is stretched more than a woven fabric.The weft knit-ting has remained popular for garment sections making, and the fabric is used as a cut and sew basic.The common knitted fabrics are as follows：

（1）Weft knit：knitting fabric where a yarn forms loops across the width of the fabric, it can be either hand-made or machine processed.

（2）Warp Knitting：knitting fabric in loops of yarn running vertically, such as tricot knits and raschel knits.

（3）Plain/jersey：semi-circular needle loops shown in the front, and V-shaped loops shown in the back. And smooth side is the front, while the back is rough.It curls easily at both ends, and unravels readily from both ends.End uses are under-wear, shirts, dresses, sweaters, stockings and T-shirts.

（4）Rib/Double jersey：the 1×1　rib is the simplest rib fabric in which the structure includes alternate wale of plain and reversed plain stitches. Examples of the other typical constructions of ribs are 2×2　rib and 3×3　rib.A broken stitch will cause laddering, and will not curl at both ends and good stretch ability in widthwise direction.End uses are cuffs, collars, waistbands, sweaters and other garments.

（5）Purl：this weft knitted fabric has better extensibility in lengthwise direc-tion, both sides of the fabric have similar appearance to the reverse side of plain knitting, and the fabric does not curl at both ends. End uses are children's wear and sweaters.

（6）Interlock：can only be unraveled from the last end, without tendency to ladder and curl, and smooth on both sides. End uses are ladies dresses, blouses, T-shirts, sweaters, outerwear, sport-wear and underwear.

（7）Terry knit：a broken stitch will be running, more flexible and more absor-bent than woven terry cloth. End uses are robes, beachwear and other fashion apparel.

（8）Velour knit：better draped ability, soft handle and suede-like surface. And end uses are men's shirts and women's dresses.

（9）Pile knit：better draped ability, can be laundered and cold tumble-dried, and fur-like surface. End uses are fur fabrics and rugs.

The main competitor to weave and knit in fabric production is the rise of the“non-woven”. These fabrics are directly converted from fibre to fabric, without the usual stages of yarn production.There are clear differences in general terms between woven, knitted and non-woven.

1.1.4　Garment Trimmings　服装辅料

There are many important supporting accessories（named as trimmings）ap-plied in garment manufacturing, such as lining, interlining, adhesive tape, stay, shoulder pads, etc. In fact, these components take a very important role in the con-struction of garments, they tend to enhance the appearance and improve the handling of sewing operators.10

（1）Lining：cloth shaped to cover the inside of the garment. It can improve the garment quality, give a better shape retention and provide more comfort for the wearer.

（2）Interlining：an inner lining between garment and proper lining to give body shape or extra warmth. There are several types of interlining, such as fusible interlin-ing, non-fusible interlining or sew-in interlining, and may be classified into woven interlining, knit interlining, non-woven interlining or paper interlining.

（3）Tape：a narrow strip of material applied to a garment part for either a func-tional or a decorative purpose. Tapes can be applied to many parts of a garment, de-pending on its usage and its design.For example, if the tape is for hanging, it will be placed at the top edge of a skirt or underarm seam/shoulder seam of dress, but if it is a decorative tape, it will be placed on the garment according to the required design.

（4）Stay：a material applied to garments for strengthening purpose. There are various kinds of stays made from different materials for different applications, such as collar stay, supporting stay and other special stays.

（5）Shoulder pads：the most popular padding to give firmness to the armhole. In fact, the application of shoulder pads always gives a garment good quality and a luxurious feeling.

Besides above supporting accessories of manufacturing, there are many other accessories, such as buttons, threads, zippers, elastics, belts, rivets, magic tape or Vel-cro, eye-lets, care labels, size labels, brand labels, and other packing accessories, etc.

Otherwise, the fashion accessory is a part that used to achieve a specific out-look of the wearer, such as handbags, umbrellas, wallets, boots and shoes, cravats, ties, hats, belts and suspenders, gloves, jewelry, watches, shawls, scarves, socks, and stockings, etc.

Words and Expressions

flexibility[，fleksə'biliti]适应性，灵活性*

textile['tekstail]纺织的，纺织品

woven fabric['wəuvən'fæbrik]机织布

fibre['faibə]纤维

filament['filəmənt]长纤丝

staple yarn['steipl ja：n]短纤丝

interlacing[，intə（：）'leisiŋ]交织

felting['feltiŋ]制毡法

rope[rəup]绳索

braid[breid]饰带

tufting['tʌftiŋ]裁绒

natural fibre['nætʃərəl'faibə]天然纤维

mohair['məuhεə]马海毛

cashmere[kæʃ'miə]山羊绒，开司米毛

linen['linin]亚麻布

flax[flæks]亚麻，麻布

textured yarn['tekstʃəd ja：n]膨松纱，变形纱

glass fibre[gla：s'faibə]玻璃纤维

metal fibre['metl'faibə]金属纤维

nylon['nailən]尼龙

cotton['kɔtn]棉

viscose rayon['viskəus'reiɔn]粘胶纤维

polyester['pɔliestə]聚酯纤维，涤纶

synthetic[sin'Wetic]合成纤维

acetate['æsi, teit]醋酯纤维

man-made fibre[mæn meid'faibə]化学纤维

regenerated fibre[ri'dʒenərit'faibə]再生纤维

mineral['minərəl]矿物质

silk[silk]丝

wool[wul]羊毛

towel['tauəl]毛巾

suiting['sju：tiŋ]西装料

coating['kəutiŋ]外衣料

dress-goods[dres-gudz]服装产品

knitwear['nit, wεə]针织服装

rug[rʌg]厚毯，小地毯

yarn[ja：n]纱线

acrylic[ə'krilik]腈纶

print fabric[print'fæbrik]印花布

artificial[a：ti'fiʃəl]人造的

blend fibre[blend'faibə]混纺纤维

property['prɔpəti]特性，性质

woolen['wulin]粗纺毛

strand[strænd]绳，股纱

worsted['wustid]精纺毛

carded[ka：d]粗梳

combed[kəumd]精梳

density['densiti]密度

advent['ædvənt]到来，出现

multiple yarn['mʌltipl ja：n]多股纱

end-use[end-ju：s]最后用途

bulk yarn[bʌlk ja：n]膨体纱

shrinkage['ʃrinkidʒ]缩水

loop formation[lu：p fɔ：'meiʃən]线圈形成

spun[spʌn]捻成丝状的，纺

entrapping[in'træpiŋ]使陷入

counts[kaunts]棉纱支数

spinning['spiniŋ]纺纱

spun yarn[spʌn ja：n]细纱，短纤纱

camel hair['kæməl heə]骆驼毛

rabbit hair['ræbit heə]兔毛

shiny['ʃaini]发亮的（广东话：起镜面）

furry['fə：ri]毛皮制品

waterproof['wɔ：təpru：f]防水的

warp-knitting[wɔ：p-'nitiŋ]经编针织

weft-knitting[weft-'nitiŋ]纬编针织

durability[，djuərə'biliti]耐用的

non-woven['nɔ'-wəuvən]非织造布

blanket['blæŋkit]毛毯

suits[sju：t]套装

coating['kəutiŋ]大衣

diagonal[dai'ægənl]斜纹的

herringbone['heriŋbəun]人字形

zig-zag['zig-zæg]人字纹

hopsack['hɔp, sæk]方平织物

plain weave[plein wi：v]平纹组织

panama[，pænə'ma：]巴拿马薄呢

serge[sə：dʒ]哔叽

robust[rə'bʌst]粗壮的

tweed[twi：d]粗花呢

sturdy['stə：di]强健的

Scotland['skɔtlənd]苏格兰

Denim['denim]牛仔布，粗斜纹棉布

traditionally[trə'diʃən（ə）li]传统的

venetian[vi'ni：ʃən]直贡呢，威尼斯缩 绒呢

sock[sɔk]短袜

stocking['stɔkiŋ]长袜

lustrous['lʌstrəs]有光泽的

luxurious[lʌg'zjuəriəs]华丽的

outerwear['aωtəweə（r）]外套

distinguish[dis'tiŋgwiʃ]区别，分类

blazering['bleizə]鲜艳的运动上衣

robe[rəub]长袍

jacket['dʒækit]夹克

overcoat['əuvəkəut]外套

trousers['traωzəz]西裤

Bedford cord[bedfɔ：d kɔ：d]经条灯芯绒

stuffing['stʌfiŋ]填充料

wale[weil]纵行线圈

duck[dʌk]帆布

flannel['flænl]法兰绒

twill[twil]斜纹布

gabardine['gæbədi：n]斜纹呢

velour knit[və'luə nit]丝绒针织布

interlock[，intə'lɔk]双面针织

jersey['dʒʒ：zi]平纹针织

looped fabric[lu：pt'fæbrik]起圈布

pile fabric[pail'fæbrik]起毛织布

purl[pə：l]双反面针织布

raschel[ra：'ʃel, rə]拉舍尔经编织物

tricot['trikəu]特里科经编织物

rug[rʌg]地毯

stripe[straip]条纹布

corduroy['kɔ：dərɔi]灯芯绒

sweater['swetə]毛线衫，羊毛衫

loop['teri lu：p]线圈，毛圈

terry knit['teri nit]厚绒针织布

rib[rib]罗纹织物

double jersey['dʌbl'dʒʒ：zi]双面平纹

lining['lainiŋ]里料

interlining['intə'lainiŋ]里衬

adhesive tape[əd'hi：siv teip]黏性带条

stay[stei]拉条（广东话：扁带条）

shoulder pad['ʃəuldə pæd]垫肩

component[kəm'pəunənt]部件

shape retention[ʃeip ri'tenʃən]定形

fusible interlining['fju：zəbl'intə'lainiŋ]黏合衬，热熔衬

non-fusible interlining['nɔn-'fju：zəbl'intə'lainiŋ]非黏合衬

sew-in interlining[sju：-in'intə'lainiŋ]车缝里衬（广东话：生里衬）

paper interlining['peipə'intə'lainiŋ]纸衬tape[teip]牵条，带条

decorative tape['dekərətiv teip]装饰带

underarm seam['ʌndəra：m si：m]腋下缝

arm-hole[a：m-həul]袖窿

button['bʌtn]纽扣

thread[Wred]缝纫线

zipper['zipə]拉链

elastic[i'læstik]松紧带

belt[belt]皮带

rivet['rivit]铆钉（广东话：撞钉）

magic tape/Velcro['mædʒik teip/velcre]魔术贴

eye-let[ai-let]孔眼，眼孔

care label[keə'leibl]洗涤标

size label[saiz'leibl]尺码标

brand label[brænd'leibl]主商标

packing accessory['pækiŋ æk'sesəri]包装辅料

warp float[wɔ：p fləut]经向跳花（广东话：浮经）

hat[hæt]草帽

handbag['hændbæg]手提袋*

hemp[hemp]大麻

jute[dʒu：t]黄麻

mono-filament['mɔnəu-'filəmənt]单股长丝*

multi-filament[，mʌlti-'filəmənt]多股长丝

carpet['ka：pit]地毯

poplin['pɔplin]纺，府绸

sucker['sʌkə]泡状布

velveteen['velvi'ti：n]仿天鹅绒

velvet['velvit]天鹅绒

bleaching['bli：tʃiŋ]漂白

brocade[brə'keid]织锦

Aberdeen[，æbə'di：n]阿巴丁布

canvas['kænvəs]马尾衬布，帆布*

crepe[kreip]绉布，绉绸

chiffon['ʃifɔn]薄纱，雪纺

fur[fə：]皮裘

gray cloth/calico[grei klɔ：W/'kælikəu]平布，白布（广东话：胚布）*

melton['meltən]麦尔登呢*

taffeta['tæfitə]塔府绸*

towel cloth['tauəl klɔ：W]毛巾布

waterproof fabric['wɔ：təpru：f'fæbrik]防水布*

selvedge['selvidʒ]布边*

chambray['ʃæmbrei]有条纹或格子花纹的布*

crepe de-chine[kreip di：-tʃain]双绉布*

dobby['dɔbi]小提花织物*

sateen[sæ'ti：n]纬向缎纹（广东话：纬向色丁）*

satin['sætin]经向缎纹（广东话：经向色丁）

mildew resistant finish['mildju：ri'zistənt'finiʃ]防霉整理*

moth resistant finish[mɔW ri'zistənt'finiʃ]防虫整理*

flameproof fabric['fleImpru：f'fæbrik]防火织物*

perspiration resistant finish[，pə：spə'reiʃən ri'zistənt'finiʃ]防汗整理*

shrink-resistant/preshrunk finish[ʃriŋk

ri'zistənt/'pri：'ʃrʌŋk'finiʃ]防缩整理*

antistatic finish[，ænti'stætik'finiʃ]防静电加工*

atmospheric fading resistant finish[ætməs'ferik'feidiŋ ri'zistənt'finiʃ]防褪色整理*

crease&wrinkly resistant finish[kri：s&'riŋkli ri'zistənt'finiʃ]防皱整理*

resin finish['rezin'finiʃ]树脂整理*

antiseptic finish[，ænti'septik'finiʃ]防蛀整理*

glazed finish[gleizd'finiʃ]扎光整理*

bleeding['bli：diŋ]洗水后褪色*

battik['bætik]蜡染*

opaque finish[əu'peik'finiʃ]防透光整理*

odorless&perfumed finish['əωdəlis'pə：fju：m, d'finiʃ]防臭整理*

ramie['ræmi]苎麻纤维

vicuna[vi'kju：nə]小羊驼

lingerie[，lænʒə'ri：]妇女贴身内衣

polyamide[pɔli'æmaid]聚酰胺

polypropylene[，pɔli'prəupili：n]丙纶，聚丙烯

angora[æŋ'gɔ：rə]安哥拉山羊毛

polyethylene[，pɔli'eWili：n]聚乙烯

spandex[spændeks]氨纶、弹性纤维

merino[mə'ri：nəu]美利奴羊毛

modacrylic[，mɔdə'krilik]变性腈纶

Polynosic[，pɔli'nɔsik]富纤

umbrella[ʌm'brelə]雨伞

boots[boots]靴子

cravat[krə'væt]围巾

belt[belt]腰带

suspender[sə'spendə]吊裤带，吊袜带

glove[glʌv]手套

shawl[ʃɔ：l]披肩

Exercises

1.Translate the following terms into Chinese.

（1）textile

（2）viscose

（3）woven fabric

（4）polyester

（5）synthetic

（6）filament

（7）acetate

（8）triacetate

（9）felting

（10）regenerated fibre

（11）rope

（12）braid

（13）natural fibre

（14）mohair

（15）cashmere

（16）linen

（17）flax

（18）towel

（19）rayon

（20）suiting

（21）nylon

（22）coating

（23）knitwear

（24）rug

（25）double end

（26）acrylic

（27）warp float

（28）artificial fibre

（29）woolen

（30）taffeta

（31）loop

（32）spinning

（33）fur

（34）multiple yarn

（35）silk

（36）lining

（37）wool

（38）fabric

（39）cotton

（40）shell fabric

（41）interlining

（42）furry

（43）waterproof

（44）warp-knitting

（45）weft-knitting

（46）worsted

（47）non-woven

（48）blazer

（49）jacket

（50）trousers

（51）loop pile

（52）duck

（53）blanket

（54）flannel

（55）suit

（56）twill

（57）gabardine

（58）herringbone

（59）hopsack

（60）serge

（61）tweed

（62）denim

（63）satin

（64）leather

（65）stripe

（66）corduroy

（67）sweat-shirt

（68）sweater

（69）crepe

（70）chiffon

（71）care label

（72）size label

（73）brand label

（74）overcoat

（75）spandex

（76）merino

（77）modacrylic

（78）umbrella

（79）boots

（80）cravat

（81）belt

（82）suspender

（83）glove

（84）shawl

2.List 5 types of natural fibres and 4 types of man-made fibres.

Example：Natural Fibre：Cotton

Example：Man-Made Fibre：Polyester

3.List 5 kinds of woven fabrics and 5 kinds of knitted fabrics.

Example：Woven Fabric：Denim

Example：Knitted Fabric：Jersey

4.List 10 kinds of garment accessories.

Example：Button