3.1　Sample Manufacturing　样衣制作

Sample room makes out a sample order and finishes the sample, and then the sample is sent to the customer for approval. The size specification of the sample and raw materials is listed on the sample order.

3.1.1　Sample Order　制板通知单

A sample order should carry the dates of preparation, issuance, schedule of start and completion. 4　copies are prepared for the following distribution：one to sales, one to the sample room, and two to the production department（Table 3-1～Table 3-3）.

3.1.2　Sample Card　样板卡

Comments to the sample can be recorded. Incorrect sewing methods and gar-ment parts may also be mentioned.Much more correct information must be marked in the sample card so as to let everyone have a clear picture of this sample.Further-more, people can clearly know what kind of sample（such as sales sample, approval sample, size sample, shipment sample, and so on.）It belongs to（Table 3-4）.

Table 3-1　Sample Order（Ⅰ）

Table 3-2　Sample Order（Ⅱ）

Table 3-3　Sample Order（Ⅲ）

Table 3-4　Sample Card

3.1.3　Approval Sample Card　核准样卡

The method of construction is determined by the kind of garment and its price. The two main methods of construction are as follows：

（1）Section work. Each operator on the assembly line sews only one part of the garment；

（2）Complete garment construction. One operator sews the whole garment.Other workers do special work, such as over-locking seams, hemming, buttonholes, etc.This method is often used for better garments, especially tailored jackets.

Workers are paid based on the number of finished garments in a clothing fac-tory. The price paid for a worker is determined by the difficulty of the task and the time needed to complete the task.This is called piecework.Workers detach the seg-ment of the work-ticket that corresponds to the task of completing these garments.At the end of the pay period, each worker's salary is determined by the number of tickets he turns in.

There are also other workers in charge of trimming threads, checking for sew-ing errors, hanging garments on hangers, attaching hang tags, and covering each garment with a plastic bag. When garments have been incorrectly sewn, the quality controller returns them to the factory or contractor to be repaired.The manufacturing department is responsible for mass-production, establishing the line based on various sizes and colors.47

The sample is approved for bulk production, the instructions and comments should be noticed on the approval sample card　48（Table 3-5，Table3-6）.It is a very important process for confirming that all details are correct.The information is as follows：

（1）Client&Factory.

（2）Style number&contract number.

（3）Fabric&trimming.

（4）Size specification, color and measurement.

（5）Garment construction and measurement.

Table 3-5　Approval Sample Card

Table 3-6　Approval Sample Form

Words and Expressions

manufacturing[，mænju'fæktʃəriŋ]制造

production schedule[prə'dʌkʃən'ʃedju：l]生产进度表

pattern grading['pætən greidŋ]纸样放码

expediting['ekspidaitiŋ]加快，促进

pattern drawing['pætən'drɔ：iŋ]纸样绘制

marker making['ma：kə'meikiŋ]排料（广东话：唛架制作）

FAB./fabric['fæbrik]面料

LBL./label['leibl]商标

specialize['speʃəlaiz]专业化

special effect['speʃəl i'fekt]特殊效果

packing[‘pækiŋ]包装

converting[kən'və：tiŋ]改变，转换

efficiency[i'fiʃənsi]工作效率

attachment[ə'tætʃmənt]附件

significantly[sig'nifikəntli]重要地

productivity[prədʌk'tiviti]生产效率

quality['kwɔliti]质量

showroom['ʃəωrωm]样板陈列室

transmitted[trænz'mitid]传输

approval[ə'pru：vəl]核准，核可

specification/Spec.[，spesifi'keiʃən]规格

raw material[rɔ：mə'tiəriəl]原材料

distribution[distri'bju：ʃən]分配

collar['kɔlə]领子

shoulder['ʃəuldə]肩宽

bust/chest[bʌst/tʃest]胸围

armhole['a：mhəωl]袖窿（广东话：夹圈）

X-back[eks-bæk]后背宽

C/B length[si：/bi：leŋW]后中长，后中心线

Slv. length[sli：v leŋW]袖长

cuff['kʌf]袖级，袖口克夫

waist[weist]腰围

hips/seat[hips/si：t]臀围（广东话：坐围）

front rise/F. R.[frʌnt raiz]前裆（广东话：前浪）

back rise/B. R.[bæk raiz]后裆（广东话：后浪）

in-seam[in-si：m]内接缝（广东话：内长）

out-leg[aut-leg]外长

thigh[Wai]大腿围

bottom['bɔtəm]下摆

front part[frʌnt pa：t]前片，前幅

back part[bæk pa：t]后片，后幅

sleeve opening[sli：v'əupəniŋ]袖口

pocket['pɔkit]口袋

waistband['weIstbænd]裤腰

fastening['fa：sniŋ]系结物

button['bʌtn]纽扣

thread[Wred]缝纫线

interlining['intə'lainiŋ]里衬（广东话：衬朴）

lining['lainiŋ]里料

shoulder pad['ʃəuldə pæd]垫肩

metal-ware['metl-weə]金属辅料

ribbing['ribiŋ]罗纹

knitwear['nit, wεə]针织服装

yarn[ja：n]纱线

count[kaunt]支数

CLR./color['kʌlə]颜色

POS./position[pə'ziʃən]位置

initial sample[i'niʃəl'sæmpl]初板

brand label[brænd'leibl]主商标

approval sample[ə'pru：vəl'sæmpl]核准板，核可样

month of store[mʌnW ɔv, stɔ：]存货期

LHD side/left hand side[left hænd said]左手边

NK./neck[nek]领圈

CB/center back['sentə bæk]后中

prices ticket tag[praisiz'tikit tæg]价钱牌

THRU./through[Wru：]通过，穿过

plastic pin['plæstik pin]塑料大头针

CF/center front['sentə frʌnt]前中

SNL/single thread['siŋgl Wred]单线/单针

DBL/double threads['dʌbl Wredz]双线/双针

OVRLK/over-lock['əuvə-lɔk]包缝（广东话：锁边）

FM./from[frɔm，]由，从

flat package[flæt'pækidʒ]平包，平板包装

high shoulder point[hai'ʃəuldə pɔint]高肩点

spare Qty.[spεə'kwɔntiti]损耗数

measurement chart['meʒəmənt tʃa：t]尺寸表

circumference[sə'kʌmfərəns]全围

perpendicular[pə：pən'dikjulə]直角

shoulder width['ʃəuldə widW]肩宽

collar/neck band['kɔlə nek bænd]领围

collar stand width/neck band width['kɔlə stænd widW/nek bænd widW]领底宽

woven label['wəuvən'leibl]机织商标

salesman sample['seilzmən'sæmpl]销售样

size set sample[saiz set'sæmpl]尺码确认样

shipping sample['ʃipiŋ'sæmpl]船样（广东话：船头板）

counter sample['kauntə'sæmpl]回样

garment construction['ga：mənt

kən'strʌkʃən]服装结构

category['kætigəri]种类

hemming['hemiŋ]缝边脚，卷边

tailored jackets['teiləd'dʒækit]西服

piecework['pi：swək]计件工作

hangtag['hæŋtæg]吊牌

mass-production[mæs-prə'dʌkʃən]大量生产

retailer[ri：'teilə]零售商

bulk production[bʌlk prə'dʌkʃən]批量生产

client['klaiənt]客人，买方

size specification[saiz, spesifi'keiʃən]尺码规格

measurement['meʒəmənt]尺寸

contract['kɔntrækt，]合同

bottoms['bɔtəmz]下装

tops[tɔps]上装

out-seam[aut-si：m]侧缝，外长

zipper['zipə]拉链

neck drop[nek drɔp]领深

neck opening[nek'əupniŋ]领开口

Act./Actual['æktjuəl]实际的

yoke[jəuk]育克，过肩（广东话：担干，机头）

front pocket[frʌnt'pɔkit]前口袋

back pocket[bæk'pɔkit]后口袋

seat-seam[si：t-si：m]坐围缝迹

top-stitching[tɔp-'stitʃiŋ]面缝线迹（广东话：缉面线）

EMB./Embroidery[im'brɔidəri]绣花

Dimension[di'menʃən]尺寸

piping/insert['paipiŋ in'sə：t]嵌边

work-in-process/WIP[wə：k in-'prəuses]半成品

pre-production sample/PP Sample[pri：-

prə'dʌkʃən'sæmpl]产前样，PP板

fit sample[fit'sæmpl]合身样

inspection certificate[in'spekʃən sə'tifikit]检查确认证

inspection certificate sample/IC Sample[IC'sæmpl]客户确认样，IC板

body rise['bɔdi raiz]裤裆（广东话：直浪）

plastic bag['plæstik bæg]塑胶袋

run-stitching[rʌn-'stitʃiŋ]初缝线迹（广东话：运线）

edge-stitching[edʒ-'stitʃiŋ]缝边线迹（广东话：缉边线）

hip pocket[hip'pɔkit]后口袋

Denim['denim]牛仔布

belt loop[belt lu：p]裤耳

crotch[krɔtʃ]裤裆，小浪，浪顶

leg opening[leg'əupniŋ]裤脚围

waistband['weIstbænd]腰头

fly[flai]暗门襟

low hips[ləu hips]下臀围

thigh[Wai]脾围，大腿围

yoke[jəuk]育克

pucker['pʌkə]皱纹，起皱

ASAP/As Soon As Possible　尽快

Exercises

1.List main areas of the manufacturing function.

Example：sewing

2.List the information on an approved sample card.

3.Translate the following terms into Chinese.

（1）pattern grading

（2）packing

（3）quality

（4）approval sample

（5）size specification

（6）collar

（7）shoulder

（8）bust

（9）armhole

（10）C/B length

（11）cuff

（12）waist

（13）hips

（14）front rise

（15）in-seam

（16）out-leg

（17）bottom

（18）back part

（19）sleeve opening

（20）waistband

（21）fastening

（22）button

（23）thread

（24）interlining

（25）lining

（26）shoulder pad

（27）metal-ware

（28）ribbing

（29）knitwear

（30）yarn

（31）count

（32）initial sample

（33）brand label

（34）center back

（35）over-locking

（36）flat package

（37）measurement chart

（38）scye

（39）neck band width

（40）woven label

（41）sales sample

（42）size set sample

（43）shipment sample

（44）counter sample

（45）hemming

（46）tailored jackets

（47）hang tag

（48）retailer

（49）bottoms

（50）tops

（51）out-seam

（52）zipper

（53）neck drop

（54）yoke

（55）front pocket

（56）top-stitching

（57）rivet

（58）piping

（59）WIP

（60）PP Sample

（61）fit sample

（62）IC sample

（63）body rise

（64）run-stitching

（65）edge-stitching

（66）hip pocket

（67）care label

（68）first sample

（69）initial sample

（70）advertised sample

（71）promotion sample

（72）brand label

4.List the major measurement points of the following styles（Men's Jacket, Five-pocket Jeans）.

Example：chest, collar, etc.

waist, front rise, etc.