2.3 Pattern Drawing 纸样绘制
2.3.1 Basic Method 基本方法
There are two main methods to develop garment pattern, they are pattern draft-ing and pattern draping.
（1）Pattern Drafting：A system of pattern drawing that depends on a figure measurement to finish the paper pattern, it refers to flat pattern. In the flat pattern de-sign process, a basic pattern is developed to fit an individual body or a standard dress form, and the basic pattern already has a designated shape and ease allowance.36Drafting method is used more for staple ready-to-wear items than for fashionable apparel, and the tailored garments are most successfully designed from flat pattern drafting.
（2）Pattern Draping：It is a three-dimensional piece of fabric draped around a padded dummy or figure conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimension fabric pattern, so it is the modeling pattern too. And then the fabric pattern is transferred to paper to be used for corrections and creating a final pattern.The modeling can pro-vide a clear view of fabric drape and overall design effect of the finish garment be-fore the garment components are cut and sewn together.37During draping, basic ease can be pinned into pleats, gather, tucks, etc.，which are later released as the pattern is developed.Modeling techniques work best with jersey fabrics and generous amounts of soft materials.It is also used to work fabric on bias.38
2.3.2 Measuring Method 尺寸测量方法
The measurer should stand slightly to one side when facing the person being measured, and then hold the tape measure close to the body, adds two fingers extra to the measurements for each allowance.
（1）Bodice and Sleeve Measurement.
（a）Neck：the base of the neck should be measured in a suitable position for a close fitting collar. Measure around the neck joint passing the nape and inner side of the clavicle at the front.
（b）Shoulder Width：measure the width between the left side and right side shoulder point through the nape.
（c）Bust：take the measurement horizontally around the fullest part of the bust and parallel to the ground, and must to prevent tape from sagging in the back.
（d）Waist：take the measurement horizontally around the smallest part of the waist. When the smallest part is not easy to identify, tighten a fine string horizontally around the waist on a level with the elbow of the arm naturally extended downward.39
（e）Nape to Waist：the top of the tape measure is positioned at the nape, and measure the center back from the nape to the waistline, also named as“Back Waist Length”.
（f）Full Back Length：after having measured the back waist length, slightly press the tape at the waist line, and then continue measuring along the contour down to the floor.40
（g）Across Back：the width measurement is taken horizontally between the left side and right side back arm joint point, also named as“X-Back”.
（h）Across Front：the width measurement is taken horizontally between the joints of both arms.
（i）Elbow Length：slightly bend the elbow and measure from the shoulder point to the elbow point.
（j）Sleeve Length：bend arm up, and measure from base of neck across shoul-der point to elbow, across elbow crook, and up over wrist bone.
（k）Upper Arm：measure around the fullest part of the upper arm horizontally, either at the armpit or biceps level.
（l）Elbow：bend the arm and measure around the elbow passing the elbow point.
（m）Wrist：measure around the wrist slightly loosely.
（2）Skirt and Trousers Measurement.
（a）Waist：See measuring method for bodice.
（b）Hips：The tape measure is positioned horizontally around the fullest part of hips and parallel to the ground, and measure at this part in a straight line around the hips.
（c）Upper Hips：Measurement midway between the waist and hip level and parallel to the ground.
（d）Crotch Depth：Measure at the side seam from the waistline to the chair seat, and the chair should be flat and firm. It is also named as“Body Rise”.
（e）Thigh：The measurement is taken horizontally around the thickest part of the upper thigh just below the crotch level.
（f）Skirt Length：Measure the length between waistline and the hemline of a skirt. The skirt length varies depending upon the style in fashion.
（g）Out Leg：Measure from the center of the side waist to the outer ankle, and adjust the measurement to the desired length when drafting, e. g.trousers length.It is also named as“Out Seam”.
（h）In leg：Measure from the crutch to the desired trousers length, it is also named as“In Seam”.
（i）Knee：Measure around the knee and parallel to the ground.
（j）Ankle：Measure around the ankle horizontally.
2.3.3 Basic Block Pattern for Bodice 上身基本纸样
（1）Required measurements：when making blocks, the body measurements are necessary, which include height, bust, shoulder width, nape to waist, across back, etc. e.g.woman's bodice basic pattern.
（2）Instruction for drafting：in the bodice drafting, always adopt scale principle with half bust girth measurement（Scale=1/2 Girth Measurement）in the flat pattern.41Now show the following detailed instruction（Figure 2-12 Basic Block Pattern）.
1—0：1/8 height less 4cm.
2—0：Nape to waist measurement.
3—0：Half of nape to waist plus 3. 5cm.
4：The point is the midway between point 0 and 1.
5—0：3cm for all sizes, and square out all these points.
6—0：1/8 scale plus 1. 6cm.
Figure 2-12 Basic Block Pattern
7—6：1/16 scale less 1cm.
8—4：1/2 X-back measurement plus 1. 3cm and square to point 9 and 10.
9：The meeting point is in the shoulder line.
10：The meeting point is in the armhole level.
11—10：2. 2cm for all sizes, and joins point 7 and 9 to locate point 12.
12：The meeting point is in the across back line.
13—12：3cm for all sizes, and using point 13 as pivot point, and sweeps arc from point 7 to right side.
14—11：On this step, locates the shoulder measurement plus 0. 6cm.
15—9：3/8 Scale less 4. 7cm, and square to locate point 16.
16：The meeting point is in the extended position of the shoulder line.
17—3：Half bust measurement plus 5cm, and squares to locate point 18 and 19，and making point 18.
18：The meeting point with 1. 3cm below waist construction line.
19：The meeting point is in the front neck position.
20—19：3/16 Scale less 6cm.
21—20：1/8 Scale plus 0. 6cm.
22—20：1/8 Scale plus 0. 6cm.
23—17：3/16 Scale plus 1. 5cm, and using point 23 as pivot point, and sweeps arc from point 22.
24—16：2. 5cm for all sizes.
25—24：4cm for all sizes.
26—25：Equal to measurement of 11—14 with the shoulder measurement plus 0. 6cm, and have the arc from point 22 to 26，and then shaping bust dart with 1.3cm above point 23.42
27—1：1/2 Scale plus 1. 5cm, and square to locate point 28，and then dropping 0.6cm below waist level.
28：The meeting point in the waistline and side seam.
29—28：Point 30 from 28 is each 2. 7cm for all sizes, and then shaping side seam.
30：The point must be overlapped when sewing side seams together.
31—2：1/8 Scale plus 5. 5cm, and then shaping back waist dart.
32—31：4cm for all sizes, both points must be dropped 0. 3cm below waistline.
33—1：1/8 Scale plus 5. 5cm, and then shaping back dart.
34—18：3/16 Scale less 5. 5cm and below waistline 1.5cm, and then pivoting at point 23 sweep arc from point 34.
35—34：On this arc is 5cm for all sizes, and then shaping front waist dart from point 34 and 35 to 1. 3cm below point 23.
When shaping waistline, must close the waist dart and side seam firstly. And check the scye shape at the shoulder ends, also back neck and shoulder seam, etc.
（3）Application of Basic Block Pattern：Pattern is by using the body measure-ment to trace out a basic pattern or original pattern, and all the dimensions, curves and darts are gathered into this pattern through dart manipulation.43And that is to say, there are already darts in the basic pattern, and the darts are usually divided into waist dart and bust dart for application.（Figure 2-13）.
Figure 2-13 Dart Pivoting
Words and Expressions
pattern drafting['pætən'dra：ftiŋ]平面裁剪
designate['dezigneit]指定，指明
pattern draping['pætən'dreipiŋ]立体裁剪
conform[kən'fɔ：m]使一致，符合
three-dimensional[Wri：-'dimenʃənəl]三维的，立体的
flat pattern[flæt'pætən]平面纸样
drafting['dra：ftiŋ]绘制
modeling['mɔdliŋ]立体裁剪
fullness['fulnis]丰满的，丰满性
ease[i：z]松量，松份（广东话：容位）
ease allowance[i：z ə'lauəns]放松量值
logical approach['lɔdʒikəl ə'prəutʃ]合理方法
jersey['dʒə：zi]平纹针织布
bias cut['baiəs kʌt]斜纹裁剪
armpit['a：mpit]腋窝
biceps['baiseps]二头肌
ready-to-wear['redi-tu：-wiə]成衣
body measurements['bɔdi'meʒəmənts]身体尺寸
outline['aut-lain]轮廓线
fashionable['fæʃənəbl]流行的，时髦的
draping['dreipiŋ]悬垂
pleat[pli：t]褶裥（广东话：活褶）
gather['gæðə]碎裥，碎褶
tuck[tʌk]裥
girth measurement[gə：W'meʒəmənt]围度尺寸
vertical measurement['və：tikəl'meʒəmənt]垂直尺寸
measurement taking['meʒəmənt'teikiŋ]尺寸测量
bodice['bɔdis]紧身衣服
head girth[hed gə：W]头围
tape[teip]软尺
sagging['sægiŋ]下垂，松弛
neck[nek]领围
clavicle['klævikl]锁骨
bust[bʌst]胸围
waist[weist]腰围
identify[ai'dentifai]识别，确定
hips[hips]臀围（广东话：坐围）
thigh[Wai]股围，大腿围
knee[ni：]膝围
ankle['æŋkl]踝围
upper arm['ʌpə a：m]上臂围（广东话：上坐围）
wrist[rist]腕围
shoulder width['ʃəuldə widW]肩宽
elbow['elbəu]手肘围
nape[neip]后颈
cross back/X-back[krɔs bæk/X-bæk]后背宽
cross front/chest width[krɔs frʌnt/tʃest widW]前胸宽
bust point to bust point[bʌst pɔint tu：bʌst pɔint]胸距
nape to waist[neip tu：weist]背长（广东话：腰直）
waist line['weistlain]腰线
shoulder to waist line['ʃəuldə tu：weist lain]肩到腰线距离
shoulder to bust point['ʃəuldə tu：bʌst pɔint]肩到胸点距离
full back length[ful bæk leŋW]全长
contour['kɔntuə]体型轮廓
sleeve length[sli：v leŋW]袖长
elbow length['elbəu leŋW]手肘长
hip line[hip lain]臀围线
crotch depth/body rise[krɔtʃ depW/'bɔdi raiz]直裆，立裆（广东话：直浪）
skirt length[skə：t leŋW]裙长
hem line['hem lain]下摆线，底边，贴边
preference['prefərəns]偏爱，优先选择
out leg[aut leg]外长
out seam[aut si：m]外缝，外长
in leg[in leg]内长
crotch[krɔtʃ]裆位
in seam[in si：m]内缝，内长
scale principle[skeil'prinsəpl]半围原理
instruction[in'strʌkʃən]指示
square out[skwεə aut]成直角地
bust dart[bʌst da：t]胸省
side seam[said si：m]侧缝
overlap['əuvə'læp]重叠
armhole/scye['a：mhəωl/sai]袖窿（广东话：夹圈）
pivoting['pivətiŋ]绕轴旋转
sweep[swi：p]下摆围；扫过
arc[a：k]弧
shoulder ends['ʃəuldə endz]肩端
back neck[bæk nek]后领圈
shoulder seam['ʃəuldə si：m]肩缝
basic block pattern['beisik blɔk'pætən]基本纸样
production pattern[prə'dʌkʃən'pætən]生产纸样
original pattern[ə'ridʒənəl'pætən]原板纸样
manipulation[mə，nipju'leiʃən]处理，操作
dart pivoting[da：t'pivətiŋ]移褶处理
hygienic[haI'dʒi：nIk]卫生的
symbolic[sim'bɔlik]象征性
hemline['hemlain]下摆线
social context['səuʃəl'kɔntekst]社会背景
slow-tempo[sləu'tempəu]慢速
draw-string[drɔ：striŋ]拉绳
strap[stræp]带条
buckle['bʌkl]皮带扣
bodice['bɔdis]紧身胸衣
set-in sleeve[set In sli：v]袖窿袖
shawl collar[ʃɔ：l'kɔlə]燕子领
stand collar[stænd'kɔlə]立领
ball gown[bɔ：l gaun]舞会礼服
evening gown['i：vniŋ gaun]晚礼服
leotard['li：ə，ta：d]紧身舞衣
lingerie[，lænʒə'ri：]贴身女内衣
swimsuit['swImsu：t]游泳衣
single-breasted['siŋgl'brestid]单排扣
ruffle['rʌfl]荷叶边
neckband['nekbænd]立领
straight grain line[streit grein lain]直级
cross grain line[krɔs grein lain]横纹
bias grain line['baiəs grein lain]斜纹
dummy['dʌmi]假人
Exercises
1.Translate the following terms into Chinese.
（1）pleat
（2）gather
（3）tuck
（4）girth measurement
（5）vertical measurement（6）head girth
（7）measuring tape
（8）dimension
（9）modeling
（10）ready-to-wear
（11）body measurement
（12）garment
（13）apparel
（14）neck
（15）bust
（16）waist
（17）hips
（18）thigh
（19）knee
（20）X-back
（21）nape to waist
（22）waistline
（23）full back length
（24）bust dart
（25）side seam
（26）armhole
（27）shoulder seam
（28）sweep
（29）hips line
（30）body rise
（31）out leg
（32）crotch
（33）in seam
2.List the body measurement types, and give 4 examples for each different measurement type.
3.Explain the following body measurement taking methods.
（1）Waist
（2）Shoulder
（3）Bust
（4）Sleeve Length
（5）Hips
（6）In-seam