第4章 SHOULD WOMEN BE BEAUTIFUL?(1)

Pretty women are going to have a hard time of it later on.Hitherto,they have had things far too much their own way.In the future there are going to be no pretty girls,for the simple reason there will be no plain girls against which to contrast them.Of late I have done some systematic reading of ladies'papers.The plain girl submits to a course of "treatment."In eighteen months she bursts upon Society an acknowledged beauty.And it is all done by kindness.One girl writes:

"Only a little while ago I used to look at myself in the glass and cry.Now I look at myself and laugh."The letter is accompanied by two photographs of the young lady.Ishould have cried myself had I seen her as she was at first.She was a stumpy,flat-headed,squat-nosed,cross-eyed thing.She did not even look good.One virtue she appears to have had,however.It was faith.She believed what the label said,she did what the label told her.She is now a tall,ravishing young person,her only trouble being,I should say,to know what to do with her hair--it reaches to her knees and must be a nuisance to her.She would do better to give some of it away.Taking this young lady as a text,it means that the girl who declines to be a dream of loveliness does so out of obstinacy.What the raw material may be does not appear to matter.

Provided no feature is absolutely missing,the result is one and the same.

Arrived at years of discretion,the maiden proceeds to choose the style of beauty she prefers.Will she be a Juno,a Venus,or a Helen?Will she have a Grecian nose,or one tip-tilted like the petal of a rose?Let her try the tip-tilted style first.The professor has an idea it is going to be fashionable.If afterwards she does not like it,there will be time to try the Grecian.It is difficult to decide these points without experiment.

Would the lady like a high or a low forehead?Some ladies like to look intelligent.It is purely a matter of taste.With the Grecian nose,the low broad forehead perhaps goes better.It is more according to precedent.On the other hand,the high brainy forehead would be more original.It is for the lady herself to select.

We come to the question of eyes.The lady fancies a delicate blue,not too pronounced a colour--one of those useful shades that go with almost everything.At the same time there should be depth and passion.The professor understands exactly the sort of eye the lady means.But it will be expensive.There is a cheap quality;the professor does not recommend it.True that it passes muster by gaslight,but the sunlight shows it up.It lacks tenderness,and at the price you can hardly expect it to contain much hidden meaning.

The professor advises the melting,Oh-George-take-me-in-your-arms-and-still-my-foolish-fears brand.It costs a little more,but it pays for itself in the end.

Perhaps it will be best,now the eye has been fixed upon,to discuss the question of the hair.The professor opens his book of patterns.

Maybe the lady is of a wilful disposition.She loves to run laughing through the woods during exceptionally rainy weather;or to gallop across the downs without a hat,her fair ringlets streaming in the wind,the old family coachman panting and expostulating in the rear.

If one may trust the popular novel,extremely satisfactory husbands have often been secured in this way.You naturally look at a girl who is walking through a wood,laughing heartily apparently for no other reason than because it is raining--who rides at stretch gallop without a hat.If you have nothing else to do,you follow her.It is always on the cards that such a girl may do something really amusing before she gets home.Thus things begin.

To a girl of this kind,naturally curly hair is essential.It must be the sort of hair that looks better when it is soaking wet.The bottle of stuff that makes this particular hair to grow may be considered dear,if you think merely of the price.But that is not the way to look at it."What is it going to do for me?"That is what the girl has got to ask herself.It does not do to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar,as the saying is.If you are going to be a dashing,wilful beauty,you must have the hair for it,or the whole scheme falls to the ground.

Eyebrows and eyelashes,the professor assumes,the lady would like to match the hair.Too much eccentricity the professor does not agree with.Nature,after all,is the best guide;neatness combined with taste,that is the ideal to be aimed at.The eyebrows should be almost straight,the professor thinks;the eyelashes long and silky,with just the suspicion of a curl.The professor would also suggest a little less cheekbone.Cheekbones are being worn low this season.

Will the lady have a dimpled chin,or does she fancy the square-cut jaw?Maybe the square-cut jaw and the firm,sweet mouth are more suitable for the married woman.They go well enough with the baby and the tea-urn,and the strong,proud man in the background.For the unmarried girl the dimpled chin and the rosebud mouth are,perhaps,on the whole safer.Some gentlemen are so nervous of that firm,square jaw.For the present,at all events,let us keep to the rosebud and the dimple.

Complexion!Well,there is only one complexion worth considering--a creamy white,relieved by delicate peach pink.It goes with everything,and is always effective.Rich olives,striking pallors--yes,you hear of these things doing well.The professor's experience,however,is that for all-round work you will never improve upon the plain white and pink.It is less liable to get out of order,and is the easiest at all times to renew.

For the figure,the professor recommends something lithe and supple.

Five foot four is a good height,but that is a point that should be discussed first with the dressmaker.For trains,five foot six is,perhaps,preferable.But for the sporting girl,who has to wear short frocks,that height would,of course,be impossible.